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Pet Industry

Does Your Dog Need a Coat? Breed, Coat Type and Weather

Some dogs thrive in a New England winter with nothing but their own fur, while others shiver within minutes. This guide explains how coat type, body size, age, health and weather together determine whether a dog coat makes sense.

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Pupwear: The Next Chapter

Pupwear, a dog apparel brand among the independent sister companies affiliated with Boston Made, Inc., deals in exactly the kind of gear this question is about. Yet the honest answer to “Does my dog need a coat?” is that it depends. Many dogs are built for cold weather and do perfectly well without extra layers, while others genuinely benefit from one. This guide walks through the factors that matter so owners can make an informed choice, and, when in doubt, check with their veterinarian.

Start With the Coat Your Dog Already Has

A dog’s natural coat is its first line of defense against cold. Coats vary widely:

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  • Double coats. Breeds such as Siberian huskies, Alaskan malamutes, Bernese mountain dogs and many shepherds have a dense, insulating undercoat beneath longer guard hairs. These dogs are generally well equipped for cold weather and often do not need a coat; some may overheat in one.
  • Thick single coats. Some breeds have dense fur without a separate undercoat. They may handle cool weather well but can be affected by wet conditions.
  • Short, thin coats. Breeds such as greyhounds, whippets, Italian greyhounds, boxers, pit bull–type dogs, Dobermans and many terrier mixes have little insulation. They tend to feel the cold more quickly.
  • Hair-type coats. Breeds like poodles, bichons and Yorkshire terriers have hair that grows continuously. When it is clipped short, as many owners keep it, these dogs lose much of their natural protection.
  • Hairless or nearly hairless breeds, such as the Chinese crested, have very little protection from cold or sun.

Size and Body Shape Matter Too

Smaller dogs lose body heat faster than larger ones because they have more surface area relative to their body mass. Toy breeds such as Chihuahuas often feel cold quickly. Dogs that are low to the ground, like dachshunds and corgis, may get chilled from contact with snow and slush on their bellies. Lean, deep-chested dogs with little body fat, including sighthounds, are especially prone to feeling the cold.

Age and Health

Individual circumstances can change a dog’s needs regardless of breed:

  • Puppies may not regulate body temperature as well as adult dogs.
  • Senior dogs may be more sensitive to cold, and stiff joints can feel worse in chilly weather.
  • Dogs with certain health conditions, including some metabolic and hormonal disorders, may have difficulty staying warm.
  • Recently groomed dogs with a fresh short clip have less insulation than usual.
  • Dogs who live mostly indoors may not be as acclimated to cold as dogs who spend more time outside.

If your dog has any health condition, ask your veterinarian for specific guidance on cold-weather protection.

Reading the Weather

Temperature alone does not tell the whole story. Several conditions combine to affect how cold a dog feels:

  • Wind strips away warmth, especially from short-coated dogs.
  • Moisture from rain, sleet or wet snow soaks into fur and dramatically reduces its insulating power. A dog that copes with dry cold may struggle when wet.
  • Duration matters; a quick trip outside is very different from a long walk.
  • Activity level plays a role. A dog running and playing generates heat, while one walking slowly or standing still cools faster.

Many veterinarians suggest that owners of small, short-coated, young, elderly or medically vulnerable dogs pay particularly close attention as temperatures approach and drop below freezing. Even cold-hardy breeds have limits in extreme conditions.

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Signs Your Dog Is Too Cold

Dogs communicate discomfort through behavior. Watch for:

  • Shivering or trembling.
  • Hunched posture with the tail tucked.
  • Lifting paws off the ground repeatedly.
  • Reluctance to keep walking, or trying to turn back toward home.
  • Slowing down noticeably or seeking shelter.
  • Whining or anxious behavior.

If your dog shows these signs, head indoors. Severe signs such as weakness, lethargy, confusion or pale gums can indicate a serious problem and require prompt veterinary attention.

Choosing the Right Type of Coat

If you decide a coat makes sense, the type should match the conditions:

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  • Sweaters and fleece layers add warmth for dry, cold days but can become heavy when wet.
  • Water-resistant shells help keep fur dry in rain and wet snow.
  • Insulated jackets combine warmth with weather protection for very cold days.
  • Belly coverage benefits low-slung dogs that pick up snow underneath.

Look for a garment that covers the back and chest, fits snugly without restricting movement, and fastens securely. Reflective details are a useful bonus during dark winter evenings. Measure your dog’s chest, neck and back length before buying rather than guessing by breed.

Introducing a Coat

Some dogs accept clothing immediately; others need time. Start indoors, let your dog sniff the garment, put it on for short periods and reward calm behavior with praise and treats. Gradually increase wearing time before heading outside. Never leave a dog unattended in clothing, and remove wet garments after walks so damp fabric does not chill your dog.

Do Not Forget the Paws

A coat protects the body, but paws face their own winter hazards, including ice, packed snow and de-icing salts. Wiping paws after walks, checking for cracks or irritation and considering protective booties or paw balm for sensitive dogs can all help.

The Bottom Line

A coat is not a fashion necessity for every dog, but for many it is a genuine comfort. Consider your dog’s coat type, size, age and health, pay attention to wind and wet weather, and watch your dog’s behavior closely. When your dog is warm and comfortable, winter walks become far more enjoyable for both of you.

Quick check: Which dog is most likely to benefit from a winter coat?

  1. An adult Siberian husky with a full double coat
  2. A small, short-coated whippet on a wet, windy day
  3. A Bernese mountain dog playing in dry snow
Show answer

B. Small, lean, short-coated dogs lose heat quickly, and wind and moisture make the cold feel worse.

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The institutional news desk of the Boston Made network. Reporting is researched from wire services including The Associated Press and local sources, and written by the desk.

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E-Commerce

Dog Raincoats: Fit, Fabric and Getting a Reluctant Dog to Wear One

A good raincoat keeps a dog drier and makes wet-weather walks easier on everyone. Here is how to judge fit, compare fabrics and help a hesitant dog accept wearing one.

Ecosystem Intelligence Desk

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Pupwear Expands Online Store With New Fall Collection

Pupwear, a dog apparel brand that sits alongside the Boston Made Pets pet profile brand, focuses on clothing and gear for dogs. One of the most practical pieces of dog apparel is also one of the most misunderstood: the raincoat. This guide covers what a raincoat actually does, how it should fit, what materials to look for and how to introduce one to a dog that would rather not wear anything at all.

What a Raincoat Is For

A raincoat is not the same as a winter coat. Its job is to shed water, not to provide warmth. For many dogs, especially those with dense double coats, rain itself is not a comfort problem. The bigger issues are practical: a soaked dog drips through the house, takes a long time to dry and may carry mud and grit from the street onto floors and furniture.

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For other dogs, a raincoat does help comfort. Small breeds, short-coated dogs, older dogs and dogs recovering from illness can get chilled when their fur is wet, even on a mild day. A light shell that keeps the back and chest dry can make a short walk more pleasant for them.

How a Raincoat Should Fit

A raincoat that fits poorly either leaks or gets in the way. Before buying, measure the dog’s neck, the widest part of the chest and the back length from the base of the neck to the base of the tail. Compare those numbers with the maker’s size chart rather than relying on breed or weight alone.

Once the coat is on, check these points:

  • Back coverage. The coat should reach close to the base of the tail without dragging over it.
  • Chest and belly. Many raincoats cover only the back. Dogs that splash through puddles or have low-slung bodies may benefit from a design that wraps further under the chest.
  • Neck opening. It should be snug enough to keep water from running down the back but loose enough that the dog can turn its head freely.
  • Leg movement. Watch the dog walk and trot. The coat should not rub behind the front legs or restrict the stride.
  • Room for a fingertip check. Two fingers should slide comfortably under straps and closures.

Male dogs need a belly panel that stops short of where they urinate, and any coat should leave the dog able to relieve itself without soiling the garment.

Comparing Fabrics and Features

Raincoat materials range from simple coated nylon to breathable technical fabrics. Each involves trade-offs.

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  • Coated or laminated nylon and polyester are light, inexpensive and water resistant. They can trap heat and moisture on longer walks.
  • Breathable waterproof membranes let some water vapor escape while blocking rain. They tend to cost more and work best when kept clean.
  • Lined coats add a soft inner layer, which improves comfort but adds warmth and drying time.
  • Taped or sealed seams keep water from seeping through stitching holes.

Useful features include a leash opening that lines up with a harness ring, reflective trim for gray days and early evenings, and closures the owner can manage quickly with cold or wet hands. Hoods look charming, but many dogs dislike them, and a hood can block peripheral vision or hearing.

Harness Compatibility

Most owners walk dogs on a harness in wet weather, so it is worth deciding in advance whether the harness goes under or over the coat. A harness under the coat keeps the coat smooth but requires a well-placed leash opening. A harness over the coat is easier to put on but can compress the fabric and let water wick in at the straps. Either approach can work as long as nothing rubs or twists.

Introducing a Raincoat to a Hesitant Dog

Many dogs freeze, sit down or walk stiffly the first time they wear clothing. That reaction usually fades with patient, positive practice. The key is to start on a dry day, indoors, long before the first storm.

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  1. Let the dog investigate. Set the coat on the floor and reward the dog for sniffing it.
  2. Touch and treat. Lay the coat across the dog’s back for a second, reward, then remove it. Repeat over several short sessions.
  3. Fasten one closure. When the dog is relaxed with the coat resting on its back, fasten a single strap, reward and remove.
  4. Add movement. With the coat fully on, toss a treat a few feet away so the dog walks. Keep sessions short and cheerful.
  5. Pair it with good things. Put the coat on right before a favorite activity, such as a walk or a meal, so the dog learns that the coat predicts something pleasant.
  6. Take it outside. Try a short walk on a dry day before using the coat in actual rain.

If a dog shows persistent signs of distress, such as trembling, trying to bite at the coat or refusing to move after many sessions, it may be better to skip the raincoat and towel the dog off after walks instead. Not every dog needs to wear clothing.

After the Walk

A wet raincoat should come off as soon as the dog is indoors. Shake it out, hang it to dry away from direct heat and check the inside for trapped grit that could rub the dog’s skin next time. Most raincoats can be rinsed or gently washed according to the care label. Avoid fabric softener, which can reduce water resistance, and skip the hot dryer unless the label allows it.

While the coat dries, take a moment to wipe the dog’s paws, belly and any areas the coat did not cover. Dogs with long ear fur or feathering on the legs may still come home damp, and drying those spots helps prevent matting and odor.

When to Skip the Coat

Raincoats are optional gear. A healthy dog with a thick coat may be perfectly comfortable without one, and some dogs overheat in a shell on humid days. Watch for panting, slowing down or seeking shade, all of which suggest the dog is too warm. When in doubt about a particular dog’s needs, especially a senior dog or one with a health condition, a veterinarian is the best source of advice.

Chosen and fitted well, a raincoat is a small piece of gear that can make rainy-day routines cleaner, quicker and more comfortable for both dog and owner.

Quick check: What is the best first step when introducing a raincoat to a nervous dog?

  1. Put it on and head straight out into the rain
  2. Let the dog sniff it indoors on a dry day and reward calm interest
  3. Fasten every strap tightly so it cannot be shaken off
Show answer

B. Starting indoors with short, rewarded exposures builds a positive association before the coat is ever needed in bad weather.

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Pet Industry

Planning for a Pet Sitter: The Care Sheet Every Owner Should Write

A clear, written care sheet helps a pet sitter keep routines steady and handle surprises. This guide covers what to include, from feeding and medications to emergency contacts.

Ecosystem Intelligence Desk

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Boston Made Pets: The Next Chapter

Boston Made Pets is a pet products brand, and one of the most practical things any pet owner can do before a trip, a hospital stay or a long workday is to write a care sheet. Even the most experienced pet sitter does not know a particular animal’s habits, quirks and needs. A friend, neighbor or professional sitter who has clear written instructions is far better prepared than one relying on a quick conversation at the door. A good care sheet reduces stress for the pet, the sitter and the owner. This guide explains what to include and how to prepare.

Why Write It Down?

Verbal instructions are easy to forget, especially when there are many details. A written sheet can be consulted any time, shared with a backup sitter and updated as needs change. It also helps in an emergency, when the sitter may need to make decisions quickly or share information with a veterinarian.

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Section 1: Contacts

Place contact information at the top of the sheet:

  • Owner’s phone number and email, plus the best way to reach them while away
  • An emergency contact who can make decisions if the owner is unreachable
  • The pet’s regular veterinarian: clinic name, phone and address
  • The nearest emergency or after-hours animal hospital
  • An animal poison control service number
  • A backup sitter, if one is available

Section 2: The Pet’s Profile

  • Name, species, breed, age and weight
  • A recent photo, useful if the pet goes missing
  • Microchip number and the registry where it is listed
  • License or tag information
  • A brief description of temperament: friendly, shy, energetic, anxious

Section 3: Feeding

Feeding instructions should be specific enough that anyone could follow them:

  1. What to feed: brand and type of food, with a note of where it is stored.
  2. How much: exact portion size, using a measuring cup if possible.
  3. When: feeding times.
  4. Treats: which treats are allowed and how many per day.
  5. Off-limits foods: anything the pet must not eat, including human foods known to be dangerous to pets.
  6. Water: where bowls are and how often to refresh them.
  7. Feeding quirks: pets that eat slowly, need to be fed separately or guard food.

Leaving extra food is wise in case of travel delays.

Section 4: Medications and Health

If a pet takes medication, instructions should be written according to the veterinarian’s directions:

  • Name of each medication, dose and schedule
  • How to give it, such as hidden in food, as a pill or as a liquid
  • Where medications are stored and whether they need refrigeration
  • What to do if a dose is missed, as advised by the veterinarian
  • Known allergies and chronic conditions
  • Signs that would warrant a call to the vet

Owners should not ask sitters to make medical judgments beyond their experience. The sheet should make clear when to call the owner or the vet.

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Section 5: Daily Routine

Animals often feel more secure when routines stay consistent:

  • Wake-up and bedtime
  • Walk times, duration and preferred routes
  • Bathroom habits and signals
  • Litter box location and cleaning schedule, for cats
  • Play and exercise preferences
  • Where the pet sleeps
  • Rules about furniture, crates or off-limits rooms

Section 6: Walking and Handling

  • Which collar, harness and leash to use, and where they are kept
  • Leash behavior, such as pulling, reactivity to other dogs or fear of traffic
  • Whether the dog can meet other dogs or people
  • Any escape risks, such as darting through doors or digging under fences
  • Waste bag supplies and disposal

Section 7: Behavior Notes

This section helps sitters understand and respond to the pet’s personality:

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  • Fears or triggers, such as thunderstorms, fireworks, doorbells or vacuum cleaners
  • Comfort items, such as a favorite toy or blanket
  • How the pet behaves when anxious and what helps
  • Commands the pet knows
  • Any history of biting, scratching or resource guarding

Section 8: Household Information

  • Entry instructions, keys and alarm codes, shared securely
  • Where cleaning supplies and spare towels are
  • Thermostat preferences
  • Trash and recycling schedule, if relevant
  • Neighbors the sitter might encounter

Section 9: Emergency Plan

Discuss and document what to do if something goes wrong:

  1. Who to call first, and in what order.
  2. Written authorization for the sitter to seek veterinary care, with any spending limit or payment arrangement agreed in advance.
  3. Instructions for a lost pet: who to call, where to post and the microchip registry contact.
  4. Where a pet carrier, leash and records are kept in case of evacuation.

Some owners also notify their veterinary clinic that a sitter may bring the pet in.

Preparing the Sitter

  • Schedule a trial visit. Let the sitter meet the pet while the owner is home.
  • Walk through the routine. Show where supplies are and practice tricky tasks like giving medication.
  • Agree on updates. Decide how often the sitter will send messages or photos.
  • Leave the sheet in a visible place, such as on the refrigerator, and share a digital copy.

Keep It Updated

Review the care sheet before each use. Diets, medications, vet contacts and routines change over time. A sheet that was accurate last year may not be accurate now.

A care sheet takes an hour to write the first time and minutes to update afterward. In return, it gives sitters confidence and owners peace of mind.

Quick check: Which item is especially important to include in a pet care sheet for emergencies?

  1. The pet’s favorite television show
  2. Written authorization for the sitter to seek veterinary care
  3. A list of the owner’s travel restaurants
Show answer

B. Written authorization, along with vet contacts, lets the sitter get care for the pet quickly if the owner cannot be reached.

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Reflective Gear and Visibility for Evening Dog Walks

Shorter days mean many dog walks happen in twilight or darkness. This guide explains the difference between reflective and fluorescent materials, where to place visibility gear and other habits that help drivers and cyclists see you and your dog.

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Pupwear: The Next Chapter

Pupwear, a dog apparel brand among the independent sister companies affiliated with Boston Made, Inc., works in a category where visibility is a practical concern, especially during the darker months. In much of the year in New England, the early-morning and evening walks that fit around work and school take place in dim light or full darkness. Dogs, particularly those…

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