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Pet Industry

Grooming a Dog at Home: Brushing, Nail Trims, Baths and Ear Checks

Regular at-home grooming keeps a dog comfortable and helps owners spot problems early. This guide covers brushing by coat type, nail trims, bathing, ear and tooth care, and how to make grooming a calm routine.

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Boston Made Pets Focuses on Premium Innovation

Boston Made Pets, a pet profile brand, and Pupwear, a dog apparel brand, both focus on the everyday care that keeps dogs comfortable. Grooming is one of the most practical parts of that care. Even dogs that visit a professional groomer benefit from regular attention at home. Brushing, nail trims and quick checks keep coats healthy, prevent discomfort and give owners a chance to notice changes early. This guide covers the basics. It is general information; a veterinarian or professional groomer can advise on specific breeds and health conditions.

Why At-Home Grooming Matters

Grooming is about more than appearance. Regular brushing removes loose hair, dirt and debris and prevents painful mats. Trimmed nails help a dog walk comfortably. Routine handling makes veterinary visits easier, because the dog is used to having its paws, ears and mouth touched. Grooming sessions are also an opportunity to feel for lumps, notice skin changes and spot parasites.

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Brushing by Coat Type

Different coats need different tools and frequencies:

  • Short, smooth coats: a rubber curry brush or bristle brush, used weekly, removes loose hair and distributes natural oils.
  • Double coats, with a dense undercoat: an undercoat rake or deshedding tool helps during seasonal shedding, along with a slicker brush. These coats may need brushing several times a week.
  • Long or silky coats: a pin brush and a metal comb help prevent tangles. Frequent brushing, sometimes daily, is often needed.
  • Curly or wire coats: slicker brushes and combs help prevent matting; some wire coats are traditionally hand-stripped by groomers.

Brush in the direction of hair growth, working in sections. Use a comb afterward to check for missed tangles, especially behind the ears, under the legs and around the collar area.

Dealing With Mats

Mats are tight clumps of tangled hair that can pull on the skin and trap moisture. Small mats can sometimes be worked loose gently with fingers, a detangling spray and a comb. Larger or tight mats are best handled by a professional groomer. Cutting mats with scissors carries a real risk of cutting the skin, since mats often sit right against it.

Nail Trims

Overgrown nails can affect how a dog stands and walks and may crack or split. Many dogs need trims every few weeks, though active dogs on hard surfaces may wear nails down naturally. A common sign that nails are too long is hearing them click on hard floors.

Basic steps include:

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  1. Choose a clipper or grinder designed for dogs and appropriate to the dog’s size.
  2. Hold the paw gently but firmly and press lightly to extend the nail.
  3. Trim small amounts at a time, avoiding the quick, the living tissue inside the nail that contains blood vessels and nerves.
  4. On light nails, the quick often appears as a pink area. On dark nails, trim tiny slivers and stop when the cut surface shows a darker center.
  5. Keep styptic powder on hand to stop bleeding if the quick is nicked.

Do not forget dewclaws, which do not touch the ground and can grow long. If trimming is stressful or difficult, a groomer or veterinary team can help, and many will demonstrate technique.

Bathing

Bathing frequency depends on the dog’s coat, lifestyle and skin. Many dogs need baths only occasionally, while some breeds or very active dogs may need them more often. Over-bathing can dry out skin.

  • Brush thoroughly before bathing, since water can tighten mats.
  • Use lukewarm water and a shampoo made for dogs. Human shampoos are formulated for different skin.
  • Avoid getting water and shampoo in the eyes and ears.
  • Rinse completely; leftover shampoo can irritate skin.
  • Dry thoroughly with towels or a dryer on a cool or low setting, especially for thick coats.

Dogs with skin conditions may need medicated shampoos prescribed by a veterinarian.

Ear Checks

Healthy ears are generally clean, pale pink and free of strong odor. Check ears weekly, especially in dogs with floppy ears or those that swim often. Signs that warrant a veterinary visit include redness, swelling, discharge, a strong smell, frequent head shaking or scratching. If cleaning is recommended, use a cleaner intended for dogs and avoid pushing anything deep into the ear canal.

Teeth and Mouth

Dental care is part of grooming. Brushing a dog’s teeth with a toothbrush and toothpaste made for dogs, ideally several times a week, can help reduce plaque. Human toothpaste should not be used, as some ingredients can be harmful to dogs. Watch for bad breath, red gums, broken teeth or difficulty eating, and discuss them with a veterinarian.

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Eyes and Paws

Gently wipe away discharge from the corners of the eyes with a soft, damp cloth. Check between paw pads for debris, cuts or matted hair, and trim long hair between pads carefully if needed to improve traction.

Making Grooming a Calm Routine

Many dogs learn to enjoy grooming when it is introduced patiently:

  • Keep early sessions short and end before the dog becomes restless.
  • Pair handling with treats and praise.
  • Choose a quiet time, such as after a walk when the dog is relaxed.
  • Use a non-slip surface so the dog feels secure.
  • Break tasks into steps, such as trimming one paw at a time.

If a dog shows strong fear or aggression during grooming, pause and consult a veterinarian or qualified trainer rather than forcing the session.

When to See a Professional

Professional groomers are valuable for breed-specific cuts, severe matting, hand-stripping and dogs that are difficult to handle. A veterinarian should evaluate skin problems, lumps, ear infections or dental issues discovered during grooming.

A few minutes of grooming each week adds up to a more comfortable dog and an owner who knows that dog’s body well.

Quick check: What part of a dog’s nail should be avoided when trimming?

  1. The tip
  2. The quick
  3. The dewclaw
Show answer

B. The quick contains blood vessels and nerves, so cutting it causes pain and bleeding; trimming small amounts helps avoid it.

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The institutional news desk of the Boston Made network. Reporting is researched from wire services including The Associated Press and local sources, and written by the desk.

E-Commerce

Dog Raincoats: Fit, Fabric and Getting a Reluctant Dog to Wear One

A good raincoat keeps a dog drier and makes wet-weather walks easier on everyone. Here is how to judge fit, compare fabrics and help a hesitant dog accept wearing one.

Ecosystem Intelligence Desk

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Pupwear Expands Online Store With New Fall Collection

Pupwear, a dog apparel brand that sits alongside the Boston Made Pets pet profile brand, focuses on clothing and gear for dogs. One of the most practical pieces of dog apparel is also one of the most misunderstood: the raincoat. This guide covers what a raincoat actually does, how it should fit, what materials to look for and how to introduce one to a dog that would rather not wear anything at all.

What a Raincoat Is For

A raincoat is not the same as a winter coat. Its job is to shed water, not to provide warmth. For many dogs, especially those with dense double coats, rain itself is not a comfort problem. The bigger issues are practical: a soaked dog drips through the house, takes a long time to dry and may carry mud and grit from the street onto floors and furniture.

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For other dogs, a raincoat does help comfort. Small breeds, short-coated dogs, older dogs and dogs recovering from illness can get chilled when their fur is wet, even on a mild day. A light shell that keeps the back and chest dry can make a short walk more pleasant for them.

How a Raincoat Should Fit

A raincoat that fits poorly either leaks or gets in the way. Before buying, measure the dog’s neck, the widest part of the chest and the back length from the base of the neck to the base of the tail. Compare those numbers with the maker’s size chart rather than relying on breed or weight alone.

Once the coat is on, check these points:

  • Back coverage. The coat should reach close to the base of the tail without dragging over it.
  • Chest and belly. Many raincoats cover only the back. Dogs that splash through puddles or have low-slung bodies may benefit from a design that wraps further under the chest.
  • Neck opening. It should be snug enough to keep water from running down the back but loose enough that the dog can turn its head freely.
  • Leg movement. Watch the dog walk and trot. The coat should not rub behind the front legs or restrict the stride.
  • Room for a fingertip check. Two fingers should slide comfortably under straps and closures.

Male dogs need a belly panel that stops short of where they urinate, and any coat should leave the dog able to relieve itself without soiling the garment.

Comparing Fabrics and Features

Raincoat materials range from simple coated nylon to breathable technical fabrics. Each involves trade-offs.

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  • Coated or laminated nylon and polyester are light, inexpensive and water resistant. They can trap heat and moisture on longer walks.
  • Breathable waterproof membranes let some water vapor escape while blocking rain. They tend to cost more and work best when kept clean.
  • Lined coats add a soft inner layer, which improves comfort but adds warmth and drying time.
  • Taped or sealed seams keep water from seeping through stitching holes.

Useful features include a leash opening that lines up with a harness ring, reflective trim for gray days and early evenings, and closures the owner can manage quickly with cold or wet hands. Hoods look charming, but many dogs dislike them, and a hood can block peripheral vision or hearing.

Harness Compatibility

Most owners walk dogs on a harness in wet weather, so it is worth deciding in advance whether the harness goes under or over the coat. A harness under the coat keeps the coat smooth but requires a well-placed leash opening. A harness over the coat is easier to put on but can compress the fabric and let water wick in at the straps. Either approach can work as long as nothing rubs or twists.

Introducing a Raincoat to a Hesitant Dog

Many dogs freeze, sit down or walk stiffly the first time they wear clothing. That reaction usually fades with patient, positive practice. The key is to start on a dry day, indoors, long before the first storm.

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  1. Let the dog investigate. Set the coat on the floor and reward the dog for sniffing it.
  2. Touch and treat. Lay the coat across the dog’s back for a second, reward, then remove it. Repeat over several short sessions.
  3. Fasten one closure. When the dog is relaxed with the coat resting on its back, fasten a single strap, reward and remove.
  4. Add movement. With the coat fully on, toss a treat a few feet away so the dog walks. Keep sessions short and cheerful.
  5. Pair it with good things. Put the coat on right before a favorite activity, such as a walk or a meal, so the dog learns that the coat predicts something pleasant.
  6. Take it outside. Try a short walk on a dry day before using the coat in actual rain.

If a dog shows persistent signs of distress, such as trembling, trying to bite at the coat or refusing to move after many sessions, it may be better to skip the raincoat and towel the dog off after walks instead. Not every dog needs to wear clothing.

After the Walk

A wet raincoat should come off as soon as the dog is indoors. Shake it out, hang it to dry away from direct heat and check the inside for trapped grit that could rub the dog’s skin next time. Most raincoats can be rinsed or gently washed according to the care label. Avoid fabric softener, which can reduce water resistance, and skip the hot dryer unless the label allows it.

While the coat dries, take a moment to wipe the dog’s paws, belly and any areas the coat did not cover. Dogs with long ear fur or feathering on the legs may still come home damp, and drying those spots helps prevent matting and odor.

When to Skip the Coat

Raincoats are optional gear. A healthy dog with a thick coat may be perfectly comfortable without one, and some dogs overheat in a shell on humid days. Watch for panting, slowing down or seeking shade, all of which suggest the dog is too warm. When in doubt about a particular dog’s needs, especially a senior dog or one with a health condition, a veterinarian is the best source of advice.

Chosen and fitted well, a raincoat is a small piece of gear that can make rainy-day routines cleaner, quicker and more comfortable for both dog and owner.

Quick check: What is the best first step when introducing a raincoat to a nervous dog?

  1. Put it on and head straight out into the rain
  2. Let the dog sniff it indoors on a dry day and reward calm interest
  3. Fasten every strap tightly so it cannot be shaken off
Show answer

B. Starting indoors with short, rewarded exposures builds a positive association before the coat is ever needed in bad weather.

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Pet Industry

Planning for a Pet Sitter: The Care Sheet Every Owner Should Write

A clear, written care sheet helps a pet sitter keep routines steady and handle surprises. This guide covers what to include, from feeding and medications to emergency contacts.

Ecosystem Intelligence Desk

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Boston Made Pets: The Next Chapter

Boston Made Pets is a pet products brand, and one of the most practical things any pet owner can do before a trip, a hospital stay or a long workday is to write a care sheet. Even the most experienced pet sitter does not know a particular animal’s habits, quirks and needs. A friend, neighbor or professional sitter who has clear written instructions is far better prepared than one relying on a quick conversation at the door. A good care sheet reduces stress for the pet, the sitter and the owner. This guide explains what to include and how to prepare.

Why Write It Down?

Verbal instructions are easy to forget, especially when there are many details. A written sheet can be consulted any time, shared with a backup sitter and updated as needs change. It also helps in an emergency, when the sitter may need to make decisions quickly or share information with a veterinarian.

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Section 1: Contacts

Place contact information at the top of the sheet:

  • Owner’s phone number and email, plus the best way to reach them while away
  • An emergency contact who can make decisions if the owner is unreachable
  • The pet’s regular veterinarian: clinic name, phone and address
  • The nearest emergency or after-hours animal hospital
  • An animal poison control service number
  • A backup sitter, if one is available

Section 2: The Pet’s Profile

  • Name, species, breed, age and weight
  • A recent photo, useful if the pet goes missing
  • Microchip number and the registry where it is listed
  • License or tag information
  • A brief description of temperament: friendly, shy, energetic, anxious

Section 3: Feeding

Feeding instructions should be specific enough that anyone could follow them:

  1. What to feed: brand and type of food, with a note of where it is stored.
  2. How much: exact portion size, using a measuring cup if possible.
  3. When: feeding times.
  4. Treats: which treats are allowed and how many per day.
  5. Off-limits foods: anything the pet must not eat, including human foods known to be dangerous to pets.
  6. Water: where bowls are and how often to refresh them.
  7. Feeding quirks: pets that eat slowly, need to be fed separately or guard food.

Leaving extra food is wise in case of travel delays.

Section 4: Medications and Health

If a pet takes medication, instructions should be written according to the veterinarian’s directions:

  • Name of each medication, dose and schedule
  • How to give it, such as hidden in food, as a pill or as a liquid
  • Where medications are stored and whether they need refrigeration
  • What to do if a dose is missed, as advised by the veterinarian
  • Known allergies and chronic conditions
  • Signs that would warrant a call to the vet

Owners should not ask sitters to make medical judgments beyond their experience. The sheet should make clear when to call the owner or the vet.

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Section 5: Daily Routine

Animals often feel more secure when routines stay consistent:

  • Wake-up and bedtime
  • Walk times, duration and preferred routes
  • Bathroom habits and signals
  • Litter box location and cleaning schedule, for cats
  • Play and exercise preferences
  • Where the pet sleeps
  • Rules about furniture, crates or off-limits rooms

Section 6: Walking and Handling

  • Which collar, harness and leash to use, and where they are kept
  • Leash behavior, such as pulling, reactivity to other dogs or fear of traffic
  • Whether the dog can meet other dogs or people
  • Any escape risks, such as darting through doors or digging under fences
  • Waste bag supplies and disposal

Section 7: Behavior Notes

This section helps sitters understand and respond to the pet’s personality:

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  • Fears or triggers, such as thunderstorms, fireworks, doorbells or vacuum cleaners
  • Comfort items, such as a favorite toy or blanket
  • How the pet behaves when anxious and what helps
  • Commands the pet knows
  • Any history of biting, scratching or resource guarding

Section 8: Household Information

  • Entry instructions, keys and alarm codes, shared securely
  • Where cleaning supplies and spare towels are
  • Thermostat preferences
  • Trash and recycling schedule, if relevant
  • Neighbors the sitter might encounter

Section 9: Emergency Plan

Discuss and document what to do if something goes wrong:

  1. Who to call first, and in what order.
  2. Written authorization for the sitter to seek veterinary care, with any spending limit or payment arrangement agreed in advance.
  3. Instructions for a lost pet: who to call, where to post and the microchip registry contact.
  4. Where a pet carrier, leash and records are kept in case of evacuation.

Some owners also notify their veterinary clinic that a sitter may bring the pet in.

Preparing the Sitter

  • Schedule a trial visit. Let the sitter meet the pet while the owner is home.
  • Walk through the routine. Show where supplies are and practice tricky tasks like giving medication.
  • Agree on updates. Decide how often the sitter will send messages or photos.
  • Leave the sheet in a visible place, such as on the refrigerator, and share a digital copy.

Keep It Updated

Review the care sheet before each use. Diets, medications, vet contacts and routines change over time. A sheet that was accurate last year may not be accurate now.

A care sheet takes an hour to write the first time and minutes to update afterward. In return, it gives sitters confidence and owners peace of mind.

Quick check: Which item is especially important to include in a pet care sheet for emergencies?

  1. The pet’s favorite television show
  2. Written authorization for the sitter to seek veterinary care
  3. A list of the owner’s travel restaurants
Show answer

B. Written authorization, along with vet contacts, lets the sitter get care for the pet quickly if the owner cannot be reached.

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Boston Made+ Exclusive

Reflective Gear and Visibility for Evening Dog Walks

Shorter days mean many dog walks happen in twilight or darkness. This guide explains the difference between reflective and fluorescent materials, where to place visibility gear and other habits that help drivers and cyclists see you and your dog.

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Pupwear: The Next Chapter

Pupwear, a dog apparel brand among the independent sister companies affiliated with Boston Made, Inc., works in a category where visibility is a practical concern, especially during the darker months. In much of the year in New England, the early-morning and evening walks that fit around work and school take place in dim light or full darkness. Dogs, particularly those…

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